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Opinion December 5, 2007
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Arancini, Arriverderci in Agrigento

While cousin John and my husband went into the city proper to pick up bakery goods, I offered to help his wife in the kitchen.

With its ten foot tall ceiling, no windows, plain cabinets hung along one wall and stainless steel appliances, I felt more like I was in a commercial kitchen than an fashionable condominium in Sicily. I was to learn later that the kitchen styling was ahead of its time.

As I helped with the salad, Anna Maria helped me feel at home in her surroundings. My newly acquainted cousin, who was professor of law at the local university, told me she spoke five languages.

She apologized that none was English so she could converse with my husband.

I assured her John and I could translate just fine for Bob, whom they all addressed as "Roberto."

After over a week in Italy, I was full of anticipation at the authentic family dinner being prepared in our honor.

We sat down to the formal dining room table with Zia Rosa, Zio Filippo and Zio Peppino, cousin John, his wife Anna Maria and their children, Rosana and Filippo, cousin Guiseppina and her husband Giosofat. As I looked around the table, I realized only cousin John and I spoke English--it was going to be a long night for my husband who did not understand Italian.

The family sits around the dinner table in Agrigento.
John opened a bottle of 40-year-old Marsala wine he was saving for a special occasion. He raised his glass and said "Salute - to your health."

"Mangia, mangia. Eat, eat," said Zio Filippo, as the food was placed on the table. The first course, or Primo Piatto, was mostaccioli with meat sauce served with bread from the bakery in town and a tasty local merlot.

During our dinner table conversation, I discovered that cousin John was a photographer, an archeology student, a sculptor of architectural models, and like me, worked for a newspaper.

Per Secondi, the second phase of the meal, Zia Rosa and Anna Maria served breaded veal scaloppini, arancini (stuffed rice balls) mixed salad greens with olive oil and vinegar dressing, more bread and more merlot.

Wishing to get a dialog going, I asked, "How did you two meet?"

John said he and Anna Maria had fallen in love during one of his trips back to Italy while he was still living in the U.S.

Anna Maria added her father would not allow them to marry until she finished her education. It was eight years before he gave his blessings.

"Cousins, have some more scaloppini," urged John.

"Mangia, mangia," added Zio Peppino.

As we passed the plates and the wine around the table, the conversation became louder and more animated. In the midst of my translation, Bob said, as he set down his third glass of wine, "You don't have to translate for me. I know what they are saying."

There must have been special properties in the local wines because he did, indeed, for the rest of the evening understand the Sicilian chatter going around the table.

I looked at my watch as Zia served the cannoli and biscotti with a strong pot of espresso. It was nearing ten o'clock and, with a glance, Bob and I both agreed to stay a little longer.

While we were lingering at the table, Cousins Guissepina and Giosafat told us they had lived and worked in South America for several years to earn enough money so they could come home and purchase an orange grove.

"I wish you had more time so we could take you there," said Giosafat.

By midnight, my eyes were getting heavy and we nodded it was time to leave.

"Stay, Antonetta, stay," Uncle Filippo pleaded as Zia Rosa poured more espresso. We talked some more.

Finally by two in the morning, not even the strong espresso could keep us awake any longer. We explained it was time to return to our hotel if we were going to be ready at 7 AM for the tour of the Greek Temple. With lingering hugs and sincere promises to return soon, we said goodbye to our Chiarenza family.

The next day as our tour group was walking toward the Greek Temple for which Agrigento is known, we looked up to see Zio Peppino, Anna Maria and my cousin approaching.

John told us he was actively working on the Temple's nearby archeological site and gave us all a tour of even greater depth than the one our guide had memorized.

The time came for our bus to take us to the next city and again we had to bid farewell to my family. Just before parting, Bob asked why Uncle Peppino wore a small black velvet button in his lapel.

"He wears it to show he is in mourning for his late wife," explained John.

"How long has she been dead?" I asked.

"Twelve years," he answered.

With a short blast of the horn, our bus driver reminded us it was time to go and once again, with promises to return soon, we said goodbye to my uncle and cousins.

Sadly, our good intentions to return to Sicily got caught up in life's many challenges and more than a dozen years have gone by.

Both of my uncles have passed away. John and Anna Maria have separated and Guissepina and I correspond only at Christmastime.

But one of these days, Roberto and I will take out the Italian language tapes and prepare for a long overdue visit to that orange grove in Sicily where we can once again sit around the dinner table and enjoy a meal with our family.

Sauce for Arancini

Arancini are balls of rice served in the Aragona region of Sicily where my father's family grew up. What follows is the authentic Chiarenza family recipe for Arancini from Cousin Carmelina who lives in Phoenix, Arizona.
3 / 4 pound lean ground beef
3 tablespoons light olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
1 / 2 cup frozen peas
1 / 2 cup frozen diced carrots
1 large can Italian Herb flavored tomato
paste
1 cup water
1 teaspoon sugar
1 / 2 teaspoon salt

Brown ground beef in frying pan. Add oil, onion, carrot and peas and sauté until the onions are clear. Mix in remaining ingredients. Cover and simmer for 1/2 hour stirring often. Keep the sauce thick but add water if necessary.

Arancini


1 cup rice, to yield 3 cups cooked
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced
3 / 4 cup Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon salt
1 / 4 teaspoon pepper
2 eggs, beaten
2 egg yolks, beaten
Flour to coat
2 egg whites, beaten
3 to 4 cups plain bread crumbs
Light olive oil for frying

Cook rice and allow to cool completely. (Can be done ahead of time.) Once cooled, add the cheese, salt, pepper and parsley and mix thoroughly. Add eggs and yolks. If rice is too moist, add enough breadcrumbs to allow mixture to stick together.

Take 2-3 tablespoons of the rice mixture in your hand. Round out a hole in the center and fill center with the sauce mixture.

Put more rice on top and form a ball. Roll the ball in flour, dip into beaten egg whites and then cover with breadcrumbs.

Deep fry until golden brown and drain. Serve hot.

Extra sauce can be served on the side or frozen for use at another time.

Makes 6 to 8 Arancini.

!

Antoinette Jackson is a Bullard-area resident. You may reach her at Antojxn@aol.com.