Gardening
Time to catch up on busy month
Keith C. Hansen Smith County Horticulturist

February is a busy month for gardeners, with both indoor and outdoor activities.

What's going on outdoors? February is a good time to prune.

However, do not prune spring-flowering plants such as spirea (bridal wreath), azalea, forsythia or quince until after they bloom.

Another puzzler is hydrangea, which should be pruned after they bloom in early to mid-summer.

Pruning now will remove all flower buds.

Finish pruning peach and plum trees this early this month. These fruit trees are not pruned for looks but for better harvests and easier picking.

Pruning regulates tree height and stimulates new growth for next year's crop.

Prune hybrid tea roses in February to induce new growth and spring blooms.

Remove top growth 18- to-24 inches above ground, retaining several healthy canes.

The older the plant, the more canes you should leave.

Make clean, sharp cuts just above buds which point outward.

Postpone pruning of climbing roses if necessary until after their major flush of spring bloom.

Most antique roses do not need to be as drastically pruned as hybrid teas.

Refrain from cutting back crape myrtles.

It is not necessary, and ruins the graceful form of these highly adapted plants.

They will bloom just as prolifically if left alone.

This is a great time for visiting your local nursery.

New plants are arriving now for late winter and early spring planting.

By planting early, plants will be off to a better start and can become adjusted before the summertime stresses of drought and heat arrive.

Shrubs, trees, roses, fruit and nut trees can all be set out now.

Have a plan and goal in mind before making your purchases, or you may end up impulse buying plants you don't need.

When preparing the soil for gardens, flower or shrub beds, or digging holes for trees and shrubs, never work the soil when it is wet or saturated.

The structure of wet soil is easily destroyed when cultivated, forming clumps, clods, and slick surfaces that impede air and water movement.

Wait until the soil dries so it is only moist, but not wet.

February is the month to apply fertilizer for peach trees. Apply one pound (two cups) of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) or other high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer, per inch of trunk diameter for established peach trees at and slightly beyond the edge of the tree canopy, never against the trunk.

Do not fertilize pears - the overly vigorous growth can make the trees more susceptible to fireblight.

Pears usually pick up all they need from lawn fertilization.

It's time to select and plant gladiolus bulbs for summer blooms.

Cannas, daylilies and mums may be divided once new foliage appears in early spring.

It's also time for planting groundcovers and planting cool season annuals such as calendula, hollyhocks and nasturtium.

Late February marks the time to apply a preemergence herbicide for lawns that had a summer weed problem last year.

Grass burs are one weed that sticks in people's memory; crabgrass is another pesky weed that invades thin spots in the lawn.

So treat this month or in early March to prevent those weed seeds from germinating.

A second application may be needed in late May or early June.

However, if your lawn is thick and healthy, and didn't have weeds last summer, it might be better to not use a pre-emergent herbicide at this time of year.

Grasses are coming out of dormancy, and some of these products can unnecessarily stress your lawn.

If you are going to be doing any seeding for lawn repair, do not use a preemergent herbicide.

Remember that the best defense against lawn weeds is a healthy, well-managed, thick turf.

Frequent mowing, adequate fertility and timely irrigation are the keys to good turf.

Don't rely on chemicals alone.

It is too early to fertilize the lawn.

Wait until the lawn has begun to break dormancy, started to green up and actively grow before making the first application of fertilizer, which is typically in early April, depending on the weather.

February is vegetable planting time for cool season crops including onions, Irish potatoes, radishes, greens, spinach, sugar snap peas, carrots, broccoli, beets and turnips.

Early planting assures a good harvest prior to summer heat.

But, don't be in a hurry to plant summer vegetables such as tomato, peppers, squash, etc.

A late frost or freeze will result in repeated plantings.

Summer vegetables require warm days and warm soils to quickly establish.

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Keith Hansen is Smith County Horticulturist with Texas Cooperative Extension. His web page is http://EastTexasGardening.ta mu.edu Texas Cooperative Extension educational programs are open to all individuals.