Tip of the Week
Get those moles out of the landscape how

My initial response to moles was to repel them with commercial caster bean oil based spray that attached directly to my garden hose.

The oil irritates the furry little creatures and makes them go elsewhere.

If next to a wooded area, this method is almost futile unless constant reapplication is tended to.

Since then, I've seen enough mounds in my lawn to justify the use of any possible weapon of mole destruction.

However, to be fair to those of you that don't have my mole murderous intents, I've broken down some options below.

With any solution, I highly recommend studying more about your enemy before choosing your own line of attack.

Mole's subterranean life has proven a fascinating subject, and success can be dependent upon how much you know about your enemy.

The internet and publications at your local extension office can be valuable assets.

Doesn't work, limited success, or just a bad idea:

- Human hair, chewed bubble gum, broken glass, engine oil, mothballs, gasoline, drain cleaner, chocolate covered laxatives placed down tunnels.

Frankly as well as not working, some of these are quite dangerous or toxic as well as environmentally unsound

! Sonic devices (or) windmills that emit sound or vibration (proven ineffective for long term control by researchers at WSU)

! Attempting to flood the tunnels in a sandy porous soil.

! Planting dense or the occasional Castor Bean Plant, Marigold, gopher's purge (Euphorbia), or Fritillaria.

While all of these have limited success in a small garden, all are toxic to children, pets, and wildlife (i.e.) there is a reason they repel moles.

! Insecticide to kill mole's food source (Earthworms; grubs) bad idea as moles can eat other things not affected by insecticides and you are killing something that's good for the soil.

Many insecticides are harmful to people, pets, and wildlife.

! Fumigation: Smoke bombs are difficult to set properly and rarely succeed in full control.

- Poison baits (unless there is a similarity to earthworms or grubs) are generally ineffective, and toxic to pets and other wildlife if they gain access.

Recommended:

! Caster bean oilbased repellents (expensive, needs to be re-applied after heavy rain, lasts only a month or so) can be an effective method to repel at minimal and safe toxicity levels. They will come back.

! Barrier Construction - (practical for small areas only) constructed of 36- inch wide aluminum sheeting or 1/4-inch mesh galvanized hardware cloth.

Bury to a depth of 24 to 30 inches and allow 6 inches to extend above the ground surface.

! Watching a Rolling Lawn- direct killing or shovel flipping of observed "working" moles. Can be time consuming but assisted using thin wire flags stuck in tunnels.

! Live Capture - Dig and place large 3 lb. coffee cans under and even with active runway. Partially collapse tunnel on both sides of the coffee cans.

Place a large board to shut out light. Mole will fall into pit trap.

! Trapping/Killing - The most successful method for long-term eradication is trapping. Choices of traps include the harpoon, scissor jaw, and choker.

In our sandy soils, the harpoon (Victor Spear or Plunger trap) is the most recommended by experts.

Although where active runways are deep or soil is hard, a different trap or certain amount of excavation may be needed.

! Dogs/Cats - Although cats seem better on surface shrews, both dogs and cats can have a natural inclination towards killing moles. However, a dog on a long chain in an observed active area, may fair well.

Scott Martin Smith County Master

Gardener